Ko Tapu, the limestone stack known as James Bond Island, in Phang Nga Bay
The retreat · Every January & February

Soi Ta Iad, Phuket

What this is

There's nowhere else like it

Soi Ta Iad is our favorite place in the world. It's a 1.5 km road in Chalong, at the south end of Phuket, with the densest collection of fitness-oriented businesses in the world. Most people just call it Fitness Street. There's nowhere else like it. Nowhere we've found, anyway, and we've looked.

You can't imagine how good you feel after a couple of weeks here. You're in the best shape you've been in for years and sleeping better than you can remember. After training hard all day and getting some work or reading done, you take a yoga class, then head to watch the sunset over the Andaman Sea from a gorgeous beach before grabbing dinner at a long table of people you didn't know two weeks ago, and finish with an (incredible!) $10 massage every night. It's addictive.

It's how life was meant to be.

It has about 200 businesses on it, and almost every one is there because of the gyms. There are Muay Thai and MMA camps, CrossFit boxes, yoga studios, massage places and supplement shops, and nearly every restaurant lists the calories and protein next to each dish.

It's around 90°F and sunny most days, since January and February are the dry season. The Thai food is amazing and costs almost nothing. So does a massage: an hour is about $10, the same as a whole grilled fish for dinner. A good room is $40 to $80 a night, and a drop-in class is about $10.

Then there are the people. The Thais who live and work on the soi are about as friendly as people get, and everyone else has come from all over the world to train. Pro fighters in camp before a bout share the mats with people who've never thrown a punch, and nobody cares how fit you are when you show up. By the end of the first week you'll have friends from four continents.

We live on the soi every January and February. There's no itinerary. Come for as long as you want (most people stay two or three weeks), and we'll point you to the right gym for whatever you want to train and the stall with the best fresh protein shakes. There's a list of every business on the street at onthesoi.com if you want to look around first.

A day on the soi
06:15

The first class

Some gyms open at five. Over a week we usually end up at three or four different ones, depending on whether it's a lifting day or a Muay Thai day.

09:00

Breakfast

Eggs, or mango and sticky rice, at whichever cafe is closest.

13:00

The hot part of the day

It's too hot to do much. A swim, a massage, a nap, or 20 minutes on a scooter down to Nai Harn.

17:30

Muay Thai, or the hill

Pad work at one of the camps, or the climb up the hill behind the soi if you'd rather not get hit.

20:00

Dinner

Most nights a big group of us eats together at one of the same four or five places. Grilled fish and som tam, or the mixed grill at Ali's.

The island

Phuket

The soi is in the south of the island, so the good beaches are close. Nai Harn is 20 minutes on a scooter.

A longtail among the islands of Phang Nga Bay

A longtail among the islands of Phang Nga Bay

Sunset at Promthep Cape

Sunset at Promthep Cape

Ya Nui beach

Ya Nui beach

Kata Noi at sunset

Kata Noi at sunset

Kata Noi, Kata and Karon from the Karon viewpoint

Kata Noi, Kata and Karon from the Karon viewpoint

Nai Harn, 20 minutes from the soi

Nai Harn, 20 minutes from the soi

The Big Buddha

The Big Buddha

Wat Chalong

Wat Chalong

Soi Rommanee in Phuket Old Town

Soi Rommanee in Phuket Old Town

The weekend market on Thalang Road

The weekend market on Thalang Road

Mango sticky rice

Mango sticky rice

Longtails on the beach at Rawai

Longtails on the beach at Rawai

The street

Soi Ta Iad

Some of the gyms and places to eat on the soi. The full list is at onthesoi.com.

The Pirate Camp crew at Nai Harn

The Pirate Camp crew at Nai Harn

Tiger Muay Thai

Tiger Muay Thai

Sparring at Insee Muay Thai

Sparring at Insee Muay Thai

Pads at Phuket Top Team

Pads at Phuket Top Team

The ring at Ali's Boxing

The ring at Ali's Boxing

AKA Thailand

AKA Thailand

Phuket Singha Muay Thai

Phuket Singha Muay Thai

Kong Strength & Conditioning

Kong Strength & Conditioning

Primal Fitness

Primal Fitness

Yoga Connections

Yoga Connections

A BeFitreat session on the beach

A BeFitreat session on the beach

Anat fruit juice bar

Anat fruit juice bar

Filling Station

Filling Station

Chuen Chom

Chuen Chom

Townhouse Café

Townhouse Café

Ali's BBQ in the evening

Ali's BBQ in the evening

Come for a few weeks

We're there every January and February. Leave your email and we'll send the details before next winter.